Ho Chi Minh (affectionately known as 'The Father of the Nation') most famous quote:

"Nothing is more precious than Independence and Freedom"

Why Vietnam?

We debated various options during our cycle through China. You know, like, "if we make it through to a border alive where should we go next"!?!

Laos was the other option for us. But having looked at the mountain ranges and terrain that link China with Laos and Vietnam it was decided to head for the easier option of Dongxing Port (South Coast of China) and cross into Mong Cai, Vietnam. 

Plus the weather should be warmer !!

And we both enjoy the sunshine ☀️☀️

The Journey 

Map above:

Grey dot = Mong Cai

B = Hanoi 

D = Mo Village 

Blue dot = Bien Quynh as at 26/01/26

Having entered Vietnam in the north, (Mong Cai) we are hoping to cycle to Ho Chi Minh City in the south.

Having the 90 day visa also gives us time to explore on route. 

So it's a bit 'make it up as you cycle along'! 

Above:- Molly pushes her trusty steed out of China towards the border checks.

Above: looking back one last time to China from 'Friendship Bridge' 

The crossing point for people walking or with pushbikes is up the ramp/steps, going through China's border control/security checks.

Then walk over 'Friendship Bridge' and into the Vietnam border control building as per photo above. 

The whole process for us was very quick and straightforward - in fact it took much longer to aquire a SIM card for Charlie's phone (due to security checks!) than it did to leave China and enter Vietnam! 

Below: Coffee and biscuits break between Mong Cai and Quang Ha. 

Above and below: Sunny pedalling towards Nam Cam Pha 

Below :- A very sunny relaxing cycling day to Phuong Dong.

On the QL18. Good roads, with far less truck traffic than we have experienced for the last 3 months in China. 

Beautiful wide roads into this area where you can start to see the spectacular Ha Long Bay scenery.

Although Phuong Dong was a bit surreal, massive road systems, a few hotels, but mostly deserted!

Our hotel here looked great on Agoda but was only partly finished! And finding somewhere to eat was a challenge! Luckily a local shop come home, also cooked up rice, veggies etc for locals. 👍

Above :- this is a 'first' a golf buggy ride with a very smiley driver from the hotel in Phuong Dong to a local cafe (Below) for the 'included' breakfast! We were the only guests in the hotel! 

Good morning 'Sunny Vietnam'.

Fantastic, our second day on the road here was sunny again, good roads, partly on the QL18 and then a smaller coastal road onto a glorious section where you can cheekily jump onto the very wide footpath with incredible views of the Bay.

The QL18 took us through small towns en route to Ha Long.

And someone here definitely has 'green fingers' with beautiful flowers along the roadside too! 

And then a surprise dusty track took us along to a small Shrine said to be in memory of 3 girls who drowned here. Below:-

Below :- Wide and very peaceful footpaths, perfect for 'sightseeing cycling'! 

A walk into the local Ha Long market to find food (cycle touring and food go together like 'birds of a feather'!) Might try noodle soup just for a change!

Sometimes after a few months of travelling don't you just crave 'salted buttery thick slices of toast'!?

Next morning a great fish noodle soup for breakfast and lovely people. 😍 If you visit Vietnam a must try are the 'Squid Cakes' 

Not forgetting that many Ha Long people are fishermen/women who fish daily to earn a living here. 

Below:- steady climbing out of Ha Long towards Uong Bi on National Highway QL18. We eventually picked the DT326 which gave us some great Vietnamese countryside. 

Bicycles are still a major form of transport in Vietnam it seems! Even in our short time in Vietnam we have seen the difference between here and China. 

You will commonly see school children (as above) and adults using them to commute. And these kids can handle the bikes so well (might book a few lessons!) 

Ok, so sometimes it rains even in the dry season! Above - sheltering and oh another 'noodle' dish to warm us up! 

Next stop: Vietnam's capital city.

The roads of Hanoi felt fast and furious, with their own special "rules".
Charlie's "SMILE" strategy helped us along:

😊 STEADY pace (be predictable for others weaving around you)

😊 Look MASSIVE (be visible and hold your space)

😊 INTERACT with others (make eye contact)

😊 Ride like a LOCAL (watch how they do it)

😊ENJOY !!

Above: A 'quiet' crossroads in Hanoi. No traffic lights or road markings. Definitely one to 'ride like a local' !

And not that Charlie's a soft touch, but ... !

When this Hanoi shoeshiner (below) just wouldn't take "no" for an answer, one might as well embrace one's inner toff.
Those battered bike shoes came up a treat👌

Below: Charlie suddenly felt the need to buy a tomato when he spotted this elderly street seller. Lovely she was too, as sweet as the tomato 😍

A few days in Hanoi to "rest" the legs.
Saw us walking miles to visit a few of the local sights !

Above: Hanoi's "Train Street" was bonkers. People actually have to live in these buildings 🤷‍♀️🤷🏻‍♂️

Below: Photorealistic murals further up Train Street

The contrast of Vietnamese life over the years is stark and shocking. But their remarkable strength, resilience and will to come through and still be smiling is astonishing.

And after many years of being ruled by 'invaders' these people still welcome us 'aliens' into their country. Incredible. 

Above: A haunting photograph of political prisoners at Hoa Lo Prison, during French rule

Below: The French were still using the guillotine here in the 1930s 

Above: This American pilot was shot down, rescued and taken to the "Hanoi Hilton" at the repurposed Hoa Lo.

Below: B52 wreckage outside the B52 Victory Museum, Hanoi

Below:- making our way out of Hanoi. A nice quiet back street before the 'hustle and bustle' on the main roads of the city. 

We decided to head for the mountains again after Hanoi - having read that Thung Khe Pass was spectacular.

Well it probably is on a clear day - BUT in freezing temperatures and thick MIST/FOG not so much!!!

We still enjoyed the challenge (after it was all over!!) 

At the top of 'Thung Khe Pass'. A really good challenging cycle ride, couple of steep longish climbs.
We were just unlucky with the weather! 

Wrapped up in full winter gear !

Heading down into the valley. Felt like a very cold winter's ride in the UK! 

Heading through Thanh Hóa Province towards the coast. Slightly warmer and no mist or rain!

A few challenging climbs before flat plains through rice fields galore. 

Above:- We dropped lucky finding Lim's Place, an overnight in Mo Village.
Lim is an amazing cook too.
If you are ever in this region it's a 'must stay' !

Cycling past a chopstick factory called for a quick stop, chat with the workers (good old Google Translate!) a couple of photos and a very kind gift to us !

Below:- Workers in the rice fields. Watching this scene makes you realise just how laborious producing rice is, working in muddy, cold water with very little protection every day.

We really need to appreciate every spoon of rice we eat and when things get tough on the pedals, well, it ain't really tough at all.

No comparison to the arduous working and living lives of some of the Vietnamese people. 

Below:- cycling along the CT02/QL15/QL16 towards Thanh Hóa City.

This is part of the HO CHI MINH TRAIL - the many trails were used by the Vietnamese people to carry supplies from North Vietnam to Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City) via Laos and Cambodia.

A stunning day on the pedals. 

Below:- don't be surprised to be overtaken by youngsters on electric scooters here!
Hand/finger gestures always taken as a positive!! 

The girls as always much more polite than the boys! 

We passed through some beautiful small fishing villages and even managed a 'overtake' or two! On route to Cua Loa Beach the last part of the ride was on the DT516 road. Very flat roads all of the way, no hills or mountains! 

Above and below :- our breakfast stop cafe on the way to Cua Loa Beach (recommended by a local) tasty fresh noodles and freshly chopped meat! 

Below :- A few days rest off the pedals in the coastal area of Cuong Gian meant beach walking and upper body workouts. Plus taking in the local scene of fishermen/women repairing nets and bringing in their catch. 

Below :- our hotel in Cuong Gian. Big and empty (we were the only guests) like so many hotels in North and Central Vietnam. 

A tractor used to take the fishing boats to the sea and back. In the distance a herd of cows who seemed to enjoy regular beach walks too! 

Legs rested and leaving Cuong Gian behind on a beautiful quiet coastal stretch towards our next destination Nhuong Cam - another small coastal town. Flat roads, relatively quiet with good cycle lanes. Even the sun was shining ☀️ Below :-

Below:- passing by Vinpearl Waterpark on the way to Nhuong Cam - looked like a fun place in its day! But why so many empty hotels and parks in this part of Vietnam?! And they are still building more! Another day of 'wondering why'!! 

We overnighted at Thien Cam: yet another coastal town with tons of empty hotels and no eateries (pot noodles for dinner!).

A prolonged power cut and howling wind added to the post-apocalyptic vibes.

Above & Below: The desolate beachfront at Thien Cam

In this tunnel (towards Phu Xuan) we decided to take the 'pathway' with a safety barrier - luckily we went very slowly before coming across a few 'obstacles'! 

Below :- passing through Dong Hoi - heavy rain all day gave us good soaking BUT nothing stops the 'rice field farmers' 

Food & Accommodation 

We are eating oodles of noodles 🍜 morning, noon and night, as there's not much else available in the smaller places 🍜

Mostly so-so pho (noodle broth), but it's very cheap (less than £1 for a big bowl) 🍜

Above: Bun bo nam bo, Hanoi. A secret recipe sweet dipping sauce at the bottom.
Easily our favourite noodle dish so far.

Below: A typical, so-so pho joint. 

Egg coffee ... just hear us out on this one !

Egg yolk, whisked to a froth with sweetened condensed milk, poured over strong brewed coffee. 

Unexpectedly, incredibly, delicious.

Above: Vietnamese egg coffee.
Sounds so wrong. Tastes so right.

Above:- our cheapest hotel in Vietnam - £8.40 (Phu Xuan) like something out of a Stephen King novel!!

Dark and moody inside - just like the landlady!! 

Vietnam: Ups & Downs

⭐️ Vietnam is incredibly FRIENDLY.
In the small towns, folks of all ages will wave, smile and shout "hello!" at the two passing aliens.

Above: Charlie gets mobbed by Class 81B of Cuong Gian, Central Vietnam

⭐️ January was surprisingly COLD in North Vietnam, especially inland.
We're talking full winter gear, and still feeling chilly🥶